A Trip to the DMZ- seoulsite.com

I sat and listened. His words were saturated with emotion as he relived memories of his younger days. He told me about his long lost family who he hasn’t seen or heard from since the war. “My brother was a real gentleman… I wish you could have met him,” he told his daughter. Many Koreans who were separated from their family still hope unification will happen before they pass away so they can reunite with family members lost during the turmoil and destruction of the Korean War.

The Korean War started June 25, 1950. On July 27, 1953 an armistice was signed in Panmunjom (판문점) Village by both sides resulting in a temporary cease fire where both sides moved their troops back 2,000 meters (2,000 yards) from the Military Demarcation Line (MDL). This strip of land is what is known as the DMZ. The DMZ or Demilitarization Zone is a buffer dividing the Korean Peninsula into what we know as the North (Democratic Peoples Republic of Korea) and South Korea (Republic of Korea). This heavily militarized border is 155 miles (248 km) long and ~2.5 miles (4 km) wide. It is located on the 38th parallel of longitude.

There are a multitude of tour agencies, but from all the research I’ve done, the USO (United Service Organization) is the least expensive and most inclusive. I first found out about the USO in 2005 when I took my first trip to the DMZ; before this, I was not aware of them or what services they provided. The USO is a non-profit organization and according to their website, the USO, “bridges the gap between the American public and the U.S. military”. They provide entertainment and services to facilitate US military living abroad. However, their tours are open to most nationalities. I found the USO DMZ Tour to be the least costly at $40 per person (civilian rate). If you are an active U.S. military member it is only $22 per person. You can pay in US Dollars or Korean Won. If you have a bank account in Korea you can do a domestic money wire transfer very easily from any ATM. They also accept checks, but only from a US bank account. When I signed up for their tour I used my VISA credit/debit card. The USO tour visits the 3rd Tunnel, which you will find is not always included in other tours so be sure to check if they offer this.

Throughout the tour there are times when they will tell you that taking pictures is prohibited, such as when you’re approaching/passing through the Camp Bonifas security gate, at different segments of the bus ride in the JSA, in specified areas at the observatory deck, and in the 3^rd tunnel. Before reaching the 3^rd tunnel, everyone had to put their phones, photo cameras, and video cameras into a free locker until you return.

The tour guide, who has been there for many years, is difficult to understand when speak-ing through the bus microphone. I, and many others in the back 3^rd of the bus, couldn’t understand him. However, he was very friendly and social. When arriving at Camp Bonifas everyone exits the first bus and switches to a ‘secure’ bus before heading to the briefing at Ballinger Hall. Here a US soldier takes over the tour and provides explanations and the history of the DMZ. They will also make you sign a waiver incase you are injured in conflict or exchange of military gunfire.

The USO itinerary:

0730 Departure from Camp Kim USO

0900 30 Minute Briefing at Ballinger Hall and then tour to the DMZ (inside the JSA)

* After listening to the briefing you arre reuired to sign a waiver stating you agree to accept responsibility for “injury or death as a direct result of enemy action”

* The bus takes you through Panmunjom and to the (JSA)Military Demarcation Line and is where you can see North Korean guards. You will also see the “Bridge of No Return” and “Check Point Charlie”

1100 Lunch at a Korean Restaurant

* Choice of Bulgogi or Bibimbab for 10,000 won or pack your lunch

1220 Tour to the 3rd Tunnel and Dora Observatory

* At the location of the 3^rd tunnel there is a short historical film at the DMZ Theater before taking a walk through the mini museum.

* In the 3^rd tunnel there is a natural spring you can drink from.

* The Dora Observatory deck is where you can see “Propaganda Village”

* Usually at the end of the trip the bus stops at the last train station before entering North Korea. This is the Dorasan train station.

1530 Return to the Camp Kim USO (Seoul)

A FEW THINGS TO KNOW…

There is a conservative dress code. No shorts, no open toe footwear, nor anything provocative that would attract unwanted attention is allowed. Also, in the 3^rd tunnel you will have to descend (and ascend) another long tunnel so comfortable shoes are recommended.

For lunch you can either pack your lunch or pay 10,000 won for either a choice of bibimbab or bulgogi. The price is definitely marked up because it’s the only option available while on the tour.

The rest stops are strategically stationed at the souvenir shops. One in Panmunjom and the other during the 1100 lunch break.

Don’t forget to bring the appropriate identification with you, either a military ID or your passport.

If you’ve paid for your seat ahead of time, don’t forget to bring your receipt.

You’re asked to arrive at 0700 as the bus must leave by 0730 in order to get through traffic and make the 0900 briefing at Ballinger Hall.

If you decide to use another agency, be sure to ask if the trip includes the JSA (Blue buildings/Military Demarcation Line), the 3^rd Tunnel, and the Observatory Deck.
Don’t try to cross the border into North Korea.

The itinerary can change at any time depending on the political situation between North and South Korea. Visit the USO official website for the most up to date information.

According to the USO website the following countries are not permitted on the USO tour:

Afghanistan, Algeria, Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Belarus, Cuba, Egypt, Estonia, Georgia, India, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Kuwait, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Lebanon, Libya, Lithuania, Moldova, Malaysia, Morocco, Nigeria, North Korea, Pakistan, People’s Republic of China-Includes Hong Kong and Macau, Oman, Qatar, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Somalia, Sudan, Syria, Taiwan, Tunisia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, United Arab Emirates, Uzbekistan, Vietnam, Yemen

This tour will help you understand the current situation on the Korean Peninsula. To get the most out of the tour, I recommend taking some time to read about the history of the Korean Peninsula before going taking a tour.

By Kevin J. Brenneman